One of my favorite places in Erbil is the music store beneath the citadel, across from the bazaar. Its a tiny room filled with instruments, run by two friendly men who are also incredibly talented musicians. In the picture, its the door with colorful windows furthest to the left (right above the pedestrian's head).
I bought a baglama (the instrument pictured above) and am learning to play it. The man at the shop does not speak any English (and I only know a couple words in Kurdish) so the lessons are non-verbal. He plays and I try to copy. Always a highlight of my week!